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| Cockles with Fennel at Westerns Laundry |
Finding a really good fish and seafood restaurant in London is, to my mind, a challenge. We are an island so how can we consistently get it so wrong? Yes, I know there are a few names that come up when fish is mentioned but the place that always has Lobster Thermidor and Grilled Dover Sole on the menu is not what I'm looking for. What I want is a place where the menu is lead by the fish that has been landed by day boats; where the menu changes daily and where a quick look at the chef's notepad for that week gives you a coherent picture of the thinking going in to it. I don't believe I'm being unrealistic in expecting this yet I am so often disappointed. So, here is my dream London restaurant that is "Focusing on produce from the sea" Westerns Laundry. Not only does head chef David Gingell sit down to write those notes but he posts a photo of the notepad before service.
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| Front Row at Westerns Laundry |
The name, Westerns Laundry, doesn't so much conjure up pictures of pan-fried John Dory as memories of hauling a bag of washing down to the laundrette. The space was once a laundry and I like a bit of history. A single visit will have you appreciating the semi-industrial feel, attention to detail and convince you this is a seriously good place to eat. The 1950's factory-style building stands out in the middle of a residential street on Lower Holloway's Drayton Park so even though, at the time of writing, there is no sign to draw your attention, you really can't miss it. Part of the ground floor is now home to this second neighbourhood restaurant for the team behind Primeur, with its more meat-based menu a 20 minute walk away in Stoke Newington.
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| John Dory with Roasted Fennel at Westerns Laundry |
Westerns Laundry has a truly ingredient-led kitchen where David Gingell's true love of fish is clear. Expect British and southern European flavours with a little Asian influence. Prime ingredients are highly seasonal and sensitively cooked, whether they are dealing with a fillet of Brill or a fennel bulb, the skill of the kitchen in bringing out flavours in everything I have eaten here, in two visits, is joyous. Cod cheeks, crumbed, deep-fried and served with an exemplary tartare sauce; a bowl of Cockles with shaved fennel followed by the freshest fat, juicy fillets of John Dory with fennel which, in some hands I can think of, would have been a bad idea to order. Here the shaved fennel had been acidified to a slight softness and, for the John Dory, roasted to bring out the vegetable's natural sugars. On a second visit I've had a plate of roasted courgettes and fennel with the freshest ricotta and an opalescent fillet of cod on a bed of braised courgette.
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| Roasted Fennel and Courgettes with Ricotta at Westerns Laundry |
I'm drawing attention to these vegetables to make a point. They appear on the menu a lot right now, and rightly so as they are at their best. By judicious use of cooking techniques and flavouring - with herbs in particular - they have never been at all 'samey'. I've had Beetroot with roasted shallots and parsley which sounded way too simple, even for me. Next time I see it on the menu I won't hesitate to order it. I've shared a scalding pan of fideo - one of their favourite dishes (and mine too). This one was Baked Squid with Cockle, making use of the squid ink, of course, and veal stock, with the finest of pasta and a generous dollop of alioli. I'm on for the Baked Lobster version at some point. The pudding list is short and sweet. If there are at least 2 of you, go for the fantastic Rum Baba for sharing, and/or a glass of Botrytis Pinot Gris.
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| Rum Baba for two at Westerns Laundry |
Plates are for sharing, with appetisers £2.00 upwards, small plates to large ranging from £4.50 to around £16.00. There's a large sharing table too. There will be good bread - if ever there was a place for needing bread to mop up, it is here. The food achieves a fantastic juiciness and you won't want to leave a drop. The wine list is mainly natural/low intervention and range from £4.50-£12.00 a glass. They had a particularly lovely Savagnin Cavarodes 'Pressé' Jura on my last visit at £9.00. If you enjoy water kefir, as I do, you could start with a refreshing glass of Agua de Madre.
Currently Westerns Laundry is open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday, but only Friday-Sunday for lunch, reflecting its neighbourhood nature. Dinner gets busy, so best to book ahead. The kitchen brigade are highly skilled and front of house staff are amiable, knowledgeable and attentive. For me, this is my go to place in London where the focus is firmly on produce from the sea and where there is a really good wine list to go with it. And, carnivores, don't worry, there's always something on the menu for you.
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| Out front at Westerns Laundry |
Westerns Laundry
34 Drayton Park
London N5
