I’d almost given up hope of finding a really good baguette in London. You know the kind I mean; like the ones you take for granted in France, crusty outside, soft and springy inside. Rather than a commercial yeast version, I prefer a pain au levain, or sourdough, to impart sweet, nutty notes to the bake. These days, any number of bakeries in London are turning out decent sourdough loaves so it’s a puzzle why a good baguette eludes them. Fortunately I've never given up looking and, finally, I’ve found that perfect pain au levain baguette, baked in the French style by Swedes - in East London. Fabrique is a small bakery set-up in a railway arch next to Hoxton Station, just behind The Geffrye Museum. After opening 7 bakeries in Stockholm in the past 5 years, this is Fabrique's first venture outside Sweden. Now I have to say, I've been a little resistant to the charms of Nordic food. An ill-advised purchase of a 'cinnamon bun', from an acclaimed bakery, resulted in an experience I can only liken to chewing on damp cardboard. Fabrique, however, from my perspective, clearly know what they're about. Not only do they bake superb cinnamon buns, but also delicious cardamom buns, a few tempting tray-bakes, biscuits and other fantastic-looking breads including a rye. Sandwiches are available and there's a small cafe area in the bakery where they serve very good coffee specially blended in Sweden for them by Johan & Nyström.
Arch 385 Geffrye Street
London E2 8HZ