You know autumn is truly here when the Brogdale Farm fruit has arrived at Neal's Yard Dairy. On Thursday the first crates arrived filled with Royal Russett, Laxton Superb and Oaken Pin. Stacked outside the shops on Shorts Gardens in Covent Garden and Park Street, Bermondsey, for me they signal the arrival of autumn in the City. The Oaken Pin is particularly fine at the moment. Small, sweet and crisp. No pears yet but maybe they'll arrive this Thursday(?). Varieties change by the week so it's a great opportunity to try some of the hundreds of varieties of apples and pears which Brogdale, home of the UK's National Fruit Collection, does so much to preserve.