Saturday, 4 September 2010

Sexed-up Cupcakes - Cox Cookies & Cake

Pop Cake - Marilyn

Given the press coverage Patrick Cox’s cake shop has attracted in the run-up to opening, I just had to take a peek. As it turned out I stepped over the threshold on Soho’s Brewer Street within 2 hours of its opening. Now Brewer Street, for those of you who don’t know, is known more for its sex shops than its food but I have to say the shop fits right in. I did a double take at a window with the familiar neon lights (I must stress here that I’m normally just passing through) when my eyes fixed on a blood red cupcake within a red neon square. Inside is all shimmering blackness with staff decked out in black, studded, leather bondage aprons. This either sounds intriguing or off-putting, depending on your point of view, but honestly stylewise the place works brilliantly. On their first day they were missing the glass display cases and, even though all they had for sale were baker Eric Lanlard’s cupcakes displayed on individual black paper napkins, they were attracting a steady stream of customers into the chamber.

As you can see from the photo, the cupcakes did look appealing so I allowed myself to be seduced. Unfortunately I didn’t check the pricing carefully enough - another trait which makes the shop fit right in to the area (I understand) – so instead of buying a “Classic” at £2.50 I walked out with a nicely packaged speciality “Pop Cake” at £4.00. According to the description, it is a “vanilla with an oozy blueberry compote centre, vanilla frosting topped with a delicious white chocolate homage to Warhol’s Marilyn.” The sponge was light and sweet. The compote was sparse and sweet. The frosting did indeed taste of vanilla and was very sweet. It was good in a sugar rush sort of way, but left me feeling a little bit dirty.

Now I have to admit I’m not a connoisseur of cup cakes, and given that almost everyone seems to think they are now so ’over’, I’m a bit surprised that the creative Cox hasn’t come up with something more original. However, I gather when the shop gets into its stride we can look forward to Chocolate Brownies, Toffee Almond Cookies, Mrs Nickolchuk’s Nanaimo Squares and three “Soho Specials” – Titty Cake, Bum Cake and Beef Cake.

Go and take a look. Just make sure you go in the right door!
13 Brewer Street, Soho, London W1F 0RH  UPDATE FEBRUARY 2012 - SHOP CLOSED!